A Week's Worth of Sewing

It's been a week for sewing, but I got everything made that I'd cut out beforehand as well as things I spontaneously decided to do when I had some extra time.

Pin pillows (the precursor to the pin cushion) were one of those "extra time" projects.

18th century sewists used every scrap of fabric, and pin pillows not only helped them keep track of their pins and needles, they were also a good use for small leftover fabric pieces.

Wool roving was stuffed inside and ribbon or wool or linen tape was used to make a loop so the pin pillow could be hung on the sewist's apron string, ensuring she (or he) always had their sewing tools with them.

Easy to make, relaxing to stuff, quickly finished - the perfect choice for when I want to accomplish something for the Feast or Kalamazoo but don't feel like tackling a major project.

A workable pattern for making a Frances Rump became available a year ago, and the first two I made sold immediately. So, I've made another two. 

Using linen that was embroidered with flowers, I stitched the channels, 

stuffed them, pleated them, and added a twill tape waistband.

The 1775 - 1787 Francis Rump (the one that I am showing) was bigger than the 1785 - 1795 version. (Read about that one here.)

But it served the same purpose in lifting the back of the petticoat up and out.

Unlike panniers/pocket hoops which are worn on the each side of the body,

walking in crowds or down aisles while wearing a Frances Rump isn't difficult.

The bulk is behind you and doesn't bump into things alongside you.

What about this one? Does it make by backside look big?? Hah!

Continuing the white fabric theme...

I also made two chemises, both size XL. 

Gold and "paste" sleeve buttons.

That size and 2XL are my biggest sellers for chemises

 so I want to have several on hand of each size as they usually sell out quickly. 

I had a wool cloak that I'd cut out in March that I wanted to finish. I spread it out on the sewing table and began prepping it, and then my heart sank.

There were small three holes in the fabric. Most likely, that was moth damage - this was a fabric that had been in my mother's stash for decades; my guess is the damage happened when it was stored in her basement.

I was not going to put all that work into a cloak that I would then need to sell for less money as it was defective, so I circled the holes with chalk,

tied it into a packet, and put a note with it explaining that the defect was three tiny holes. I'll sell it for only a couple of dollars, and if whoever buys it can sew, they will have a $175 cloak for nearly free!

While I had the twine out, I folded together other fabric packets to sell. My remnants sell out quickly at events and I get a little money back on my investment in the fabric.

Three more chemises are cut out and will be next week's project. After that, I may take a break from sewing and start making some blackened beeswax ornaments. (Heads up, those of you who won the Highland Cow in the May give away!)

Stay 'tooned!

Does This Make My Backside Look Big?

First Post of the Day

Does this make my backside look big? 

If so, then it's doing its job.

This is an 18th century Frances Rump, the 1785 - 1795 version. (The 1775 - 1787 version is even bigger.)

They were filled with feathers (ACHOO!), horsehair (no way), cork shavings (messy!), and wool roving (too expensive.)

Most modern day sewists like me fill them with polyfil (much less expensive.)

In the 1700s, the goal was to lift the skirts up in the back for some added shaping. (Photo by The Dreamstress.)

I'm working on two Frances Rumps, both of off-white linen and embroidered with flowers, pink on one and white on the other.

I finished the first and put it on my dressmaker's mannequin to check fit and look.

Had I overfilled the channels? The weight of the wearer's skirts will compress them somewhat, but still I wondered.

And then I found this photo, also from The Dreamstress, with several examples of Frances Rumps. (To be clear, she was having fun; women did not wear multiples like that.)

I'd thought I might remove the twill tape waistband and remove some of the polyfil, but not anymore.

With time and the weight of petticoats, this undergarment will be just fine.

And it does make my backside look big, so yay, me!

Last day to enter the August Give Away!

Learn the secret life of Pepper, Seeing Eye Dog extraordinaire!

Entries close at 11:59 PM Eastern tonight and I'll spin to win tomorrow.

Stay 'tooned!

Kalamazoo 2025: Packed Up & Ready!

My sister Leslie has really been a help to me in getting to Kalamazoo this year. She's always helpful, but this year she really pulled out the stops.

Leslie working in the greenhouse on her farm last week.

"We want you there," she said when I told her Lisa could not come to help this year and that I was only a month post-op and under lifting and carrying restrictions. "We will help you and then get you more help at the event. Please come."

So I am going. 

Just as Leslie retired as director of The Feast of the Hunters' Moon a year ago, she and Rick are retiring from Kalamazoo. They own the event and have sold it to a couple well versed in living history who will do an excellent job of keeping it going in the future. I am glad I can be there for her last huzzah.

Screenshot from The Kalamazoo Living History Show.

She and Rick went up Wednesday and began set-up yesterday. Ethan, Paisley, and Ethan's father, Mike, were there to help. Leslie called me, explained that they were way ahead of schedule in setting up due to having the Yazels' help, and asked if I "minded" if she unpacked my clothing and got it hung up and ready for the show. 

I did not mind a bit and was actually very grateful - I'd been worried about the lifting as I'd already popped open an incision when I'd packed that clothing up. 

"Is this right, Lynn?" came a text with a picture of my newly arranged tables. "Perfect!" I replied.

"You will be right across from us like usual so we will be able to help you if you need it." "Perfect again! Thanks so much!"

I'm hitching a ride up to Kalamazoo today with Leslie's bestie, Gretchen.

I've known Gretchen since we all were teenagers and she's also a horsey gal. She's had horses (I think they were Tennessee Walkers) so no doubt the three hour drive to Michigan will go quickly as we gab about horses, living history, and more.

Both Frances Rumps are finished and will be popped into Gretchen's truck with my suitcase.

I made the smaller one first.

The smaller size has been documented to 1785 - 1795.

When you see a rump worn with a petticoat, you can see that it was definitely the precursor to the bustle.

The larger rump has been documented to 1775 - 1787.

The fabric I used is fustian - a blend of linen and cotton.

I'm very happy with how these turned out and I think they will sell well. If so, then I will add them to my "always keep in stock" list and begin taking them to the Feast, too.

Still left to do? Pack my suitcase and try on my caraco jacket.

I am sure it will fit me as it always does,

but what I want to check is where the front closure (a placket of hook and eyes hidden on the inside) presses on my body. As I found out while packing up, those healing incisions are not fully healed and can open up. The internal sutures are even more fragile and so I need to be careful.

If I try on the caraco jacket and have any concerns, I'll leave it at home and wear my bedgowns.

They are very loose over the abdomen and won't put any pressure on it. I prefer my caraco but it is what it is, right?

After working so hard to prepare clothing, beeswax ornaments, and sleeve buttons since January, I am ready. Gretchen is coming around noon, I will kiss Craig, Pepper, and Tammo goodbye, and be off.

I can't wait!

'Twill Be Done

 This is the state of my office right now as I do inventory and pack for The Kalamazoo Living History Show.

I'm still under lifting and twisting restrictions so I have been careful to slide tubs that are on top of each other either onto a chair or to let them just crash onto the floor. (Sure can't do that when you are packing for a model horse show!)

Of course, once they are on the floor, I cannot lift them back up. Craig will do that for me, but I won't ask him until I am done inventorying and repacking. 

I'm actually making good progress and hope to finish up later today or tomorrow.

I've gotten a little unplanned sewing done, too - three aprons made from the white cotton I have for chemises. 

They are on a drawstring which makes it so they fit most people.

For the first one I used a one inch twill tape for that drawstring. Twill tape is sturdy and it is period correct.

For the other two aprons, I used half inch twill tape.

Either width is fine so it just comes down to personal preference. 

Some women prefer a wider width, others do not. By using both widths, I offer a better selection to my customers.

I also use twill tape for the drawstring around the neckline (tied and tucked inside) and then at the wrists for chemises. 

For a chemise, I prefer one-eighth inch twill tape.

As I was working, I realized that I was almost out of the inch wide tape. Naturally, I had to go shopping.

I went to my favorite 18th century sewing shop, Burnley & Trowbridge. And of course I found some other things I needed while I was shopping.

  

I had tracking for my order within two hours of placing it! Burnley & Trowbridge's customer service is second to none.

I'm actually a little ahead of schedule for Kalamazoo right now and I am toying with making a pattern I've had for a few months and have been wanting to try.

Ever heard of the Frances Rump?

It's a type of bum roll/modification that gave women the fuller backside look that was fashionable in the last quarter of the 18th century.

 

And look! It's pleated! I love how pleats look and oh, how I love to make them. Surely I will have time to make the Frances Rump before the show. Fingers crossed.

Off to go check my fabric stash and draft a pattern. Hopefully, 'twill be done soon. (Hah!)