Tick! Tick! Tick! And the March Give Away

Time is flying. The Kalamazoo Living History Show is  only a week away. And I am still in the middle of making Lisa's 18th century robe a l'Anglais. (English gown.)

English gowns are not for the faint of heart, either to make (me) or to wear (Lisa.)

The back has beautiful pleating that cascades down from the neckline past the waist and to the ground. This woman is wearing a bum roll underneath her gown. (Photo from Couture Mayah/Google Images)

The sleeves are shaped to curve down and inward. That can be uncomfortable to wear - you do not have the same range of motion with your arms that you do in 21st century clothes. (Photo from Tea in a Teacup/Google Images)

There is a petticoat worn underneath (the cream skirt on this gown) plus a stomacher (the triangular piece over the bust and waist) that is pinned in place under the bodice along with robings (two draped pieces that fall from the shoulders, over the bust, and down a little past the waist.) (Photo from Metropolitan Museum of Art/Google Images)

Underneath the bodice are stays (the forerunner of the corset) and a chemise or shift (a white, sleeved undergarment.) The gown is literally pinned onto the wearer - there are no buttons, ties, or any other fasteners.

It's a complicated item to make, but very beautiful when completed.

Wisely the directions have you begin by making a "muslin," a practice bodice that gives you experience in using a difficult pattern and that also allows you to check the fit of the pattern in case adjustments need to be made.

The muslin I made for Lisa's gown. Since it is for fitting and practice, I write notes on it as I work. (There are more than can't be seen.) It does not close down the front because the stomacher will fit into that open space.

Since Lisa was unable to come over for the necessary fittings when I began stitching the robe a l'Anglais, I skipped ahead in the process and made the petticoat so that I did not lose time while I waited for her. Petticoats are standard 18th century garments and are actually skirts, not the undergarment the word "petticoat" brings to 21st century minds.

Pleating is moderately difficult because you are making the waistline smaller to fit the wearer.

I made and remade the pleats several times before I finally had the waist the right measurement.

Before stitching the twill waistband on, I needed to be sure the pleating on the front and the back of the petticoat were pinned flat and not bunching.

But all that effort is worth it in the end.

18th century protocol requires panniers (pocket hoops, one on each hip) or a bum roll. Lis is trying the petticoat with her panniers on here.

She and I both preferred the look of the panniers over the bum roll. (We are being a little silly here - the bum roll has been placed too high and is REALLY exaggerating her, well, um, her bum. LOL)

Petticoat completed, I got her measurements and cut out the muslin. Practicing was a good idea - putting in those curved sleeves was difficult and I had to unpick all my stitchings on the first try and do it again. Lisa dropped by after school yesterday for a fitting.

Sometimes, even though you are striving for authenticity and historical accuracy, you have to make some changes. Wearing a chemise under her stays is period correct, but just was not practical as the fabric of the muslin would not lie smoothly over it. We could not get a correct fitting that way.

So, we decided to ditch the chemise - no one would know as they do not show under your period clothing.

And since it took quite a while to lace Lisa into her stays (I literally had my feet braced against her legs as I leaned back in a chair pulling those lacings closed), we figured we'd just loosen them and slip the chemise off over her head.

Good idea, in theory.

Lis got stuck at this point and we both started giggling and soon were full blown laughing while she continued to struggle. I had to step in and pull the chemise up and out of the stays and then over her head to get it off.

Today's plan is to lengthen the pattern in the bodice and then get started on the real deal. If this were summer and Lisa was not teaching all day, she could hang out here with me and there would be no waiting and lost time for fittings. Honestly (and I told her this) I don't think I will be able to finish the gown for her by the time we leave for Kalamazoo - she just can't come over every time I am ready to check fit. 

She was very understanding and pointed out that she could always wear the petticoat that I've already made with a short gown or bed gown for Kalamazoo. (Those are 18th century jackets and I have several of those that she could wear.)

Wish me luck - I am going to be working hard to finish it.

And now, it's time to announce the March give away!

Maple cakes!

They probably won't be ones like this that I make. (Er, this batch has been eaten.) Most likely they will be some from the batch that I will be selling at Kalamazoo. Those are bigger and disk shaped.

Like these.

Regardless, they will be yummy, especially if you like maple. Be aware that they are very sweet. Some folks can eat them all at once, others need to nibble on them throughout the day. 

The March give away begins now with this blog post and will end Monday, March 11 at 11:59 PM eastern time. To enter, simply comment on any blog posted starting with this one and through Monday. If need be, you can enter via email. (horsiemama8@gmail.com)

Good luck to everyone!